New York Photo Review
from the NYPR Archives

Making Caribbean Dance by Susanna Sloat
The Genetic Wars by Barbara Confino
Soho Photo Gallery
Central Booking Magazine

Fashion Flux
Arthur Elgort
1970 - 2010
Ed Barnas
Arthur Elgort, “Kate Moss at the Lido, Paris, 1993”

Credited with bringing a level of informality and movement back into fashion shooting in the 1970s (akin to Martin Munkácsi’s innovations in the 30’s) Arthur Elgort is currently showing over seventy prints spanning four decades at the Staley-Wise Gallery. Known primarily as a fashion photographer, he is also noted for his photographs of jazz musicians and ballet. All are represented here along with a number of candid, behind the scenes photos.

I profess no special knowledge of fashion and my response to the fashion work was consequently mixed. I enjoyed the incongruity of Kate Moss standing on the table at the Café Lipp with two seated suited gentlemen and the spontaneous feel of the photo of Christy Turlington at La Coupole as well as a number of the informal candids of designers and models (e.g., models after the Azzedine Alaia show). But I did not respond to others (the photo of Helena Christensen in a boat in New Orleans) or the more constructed group shots (Mad Max, Prairie Schooner.)

 by unidentified photographer.
Arthur Elgort, “Christy Turlington at La Coupole,1988”

While the show is hung in a fairly traditional manner, there are two interesting variations: On entering the gallery one faces a huge print (56x80 in.) of a phalanx of photographers at a Paris fashion show (an image which also appears on the cover of his book Camera Crazy). And in the next room, offering an interesting mix somewhat random in subject matter, one entire wall is covered with forty-four 17x22 inch prints. I had the impression of the studio wall on which a photographer might tack up favorite prints.

Ones I found of interest were those of Emma underwater; Simone Signoret; Christy Turlington in Russia; a student at the Vaganova Ballet School; Heather, Susan and Irene for Vogue Italia; Max Roach’s hands; Shaun Casey for Italian Bazaar; and a photo in the Rome Airport from 2003.

Arthur Elgort
1970 - 2010


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Friday, April 1 to
Saturday, May 14, 2011
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The Genetic Wars by Barbara Confino
Making Caribbean Dance by Susanna Sloat
Central Booking Magazine
Soho Photo Gallery